Doctor on Everest - Kenneth Kamler

Centring on the disastrous 1996 ascents of Everest, Doctor on Everest is a compelling portrait of how medicine is performed and lives are saved - or lost - in perilous conditions. During the multi-expedition climbing attempt on the summit in May of that year, conditions on the mountain rapidly deteriorated, and a desperate medical situation suddenly emerged.

Kamler describes in sharp detail what life was like on Everest - how he negotiated his dual role as doctor and climber, the difficult separation from home and family to pursue a lifelong dream, and the effects of fear, stress and adrenaline on the entire group. But nothing could have prepared Dr Kamler for what occurred in May 1996. As conditions worsened he was presented with cases which would have been difficult to attend to in the best of circumstances - including Makalu Gau, who was found barely alive in the snow, and Beck Weathers, who was pronounced dead but later miraculously stumbled into camp clinging
to life.

Written with sensitivity and poignancy throughout, Doctor on Everest reveals a deep understanding of what it takes for the human body and mind to function at high altitudes.