Jewellery manufacture and repair - Charles A. Jarvis

Despite the growing popularity of jewellery-making as a leisure craft in the last few years, there has not been, up to now, a book that goes beyond the basic skills to describe the advanced techniques used by the professional for the kind of jewellery sold in jewellers' shops. This book, written by an expert of many years' standing, aims to repair this omission. The book begins with the basics: how to organize your workshop, what tools and equipment you will need and the different types of metals with which you will be working. There is a comprehensive chapter on the basic techniques of metal working which includes using rolling mills, soldering and the correct way to use a mouth blowpipe, buffing and doming. The author then describes how to make specific items, beginning with single-stone rings which demonstrate the making vezels and collets. From there he moves on to multiple-stone rings, cluster head rings and eternity rings and covers the techniques of millegraining, saw-piercing, claw-cutting and calibre-setting. He also discusses the mass production of 'goldware' rings - wedding and signets. The making and decorating of shanks and shoulders is described, as is the ornamenting of large bezels. There are chapters on brooches, earrings, necklaces and bracelets which detail additional techniques such as safety hinge and pin making, earring, clips and screws and frames for double-clip brooches. Finally the book describes the allied techniques of polishing, setting and finishing which bring the mount to its final appearance. There is also coverage on the techniques of casting including the preparation of waxes and the actual problems of casting various metals. Lastly there is a comprehensive chapter covering additional repairs, such as ring resizing and claw repairing. Illustrated throughout with over 280 line drawings, this book will prove invaluable to any jewellers - professional or amateur - who want a comprehensive reference book which covers the entire field of jewellery manufacture and repair.